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Read Articles About Clogs and Clog Making

Clog Making Today
The Life of a Traditional Clog Maker
by Sarah Ade

Over the last century the popularity in Britain of clogs as a choice of footwear has been in decline, and they are now almost solely (no pun intended!) worn as a fashion item or for specific pursuits such as clog dancing.

Up until 60 years ago or so, clogs were a common type of footwear worn by anyone from farmers to school teachers - clog making in Britain was booming and almost everyone owned a pair of clogs. During the war you needed coupons to buy rubber-soled shoes, whereas you could buy whatever clogs you liked, and as they were also more durable and easier to repair than other types of shoes or boots they were extremely popular. Farmers wore clog-boots whose wooden soles kept them out of the mud, road workers wore clog-boots to insulate their feet from the heat of newly laid hot tarmac, in winter school children would collect snow on the bottoms of the clogs and then skate around the playground on these make-shift skates.

On the bottom of the wooden base of clogs a ‘cacker’, like a small metal horse shoe, was nailed on the front and heel as a sole for grip and to stop the wood wearing out. People repaired their clogs at home, replacing cackers or fitting new leather uppers. Then in the 1940’s big shoe corporations started up, bringing the cost of shoes right down, so clogs became less affordable to the general public and also less attractive than the fashionable new styles of footwear available.

The change in demand for footwear over the past century has meant that clog making has dropped from a clog maker in every village in some areas of Northern England and Scotland in the early 1900’s to only a few in the whole of the UK today. But how feasible an occupation is it? In the small village of Balmaclellan, Dumfries and Galloway, lives one of Britain’s few remaining clog makers.

Sarah Ade went to visit Godfrey Smith to find out what life is actually like for a traditional hand clog maker today.
The Clog and Shoe Workshop

As you pull into the courtyard of the Clog and Shoe Workshop, a clog-shaped sign points you towards a doorway at the far corner of the long building. And once through the door, it’s like a scene from a children’s movie; shelves and shelves of brightly coloured clogs and shoes interspersed with twinkling lights and various tables and walls of museum artifacts…..local antique clogs, books on clog and shoe making, miniature shoe trinkets.

Leading off the showroom is the workshop itself. Here we find Godfrey standing surrounded by various strange machines and walls of shoe parts, tools and implements. He is a tall, thin man in around his mid-fifties, with tousled greying hair and a short beard. Wearing a leather apron, he peers in intense concentration through glasses perched on the end of his nose at a shoe he is working on.

The machines and equipment in the workshop looks like something out of another era – Singer manual sewing machines, hammers of all sizes, riveting machines, various slightly ominous looking machines bolted to benches with handles and blades for cutting soling, shelves of rainbow coloured dyes and walls and walls of lasts for stretching the leather uppers of shoes into the right shapes and sizes.

The clog making process
I ask Godfrey if he would mind running briefly through the process of making a pair of clogs. He chooses to use the slip-on, his best-selling clog, as an example. First get the pattern and draw around it on the flesh side (back) of the hide, making sure to select a portion that is smooth, without flaws and not ‘fluffy’ at the back. Pattern making is something which Godfrey had to deal with initially when creating his styles of footwear, and it is a very precise and time consuming task. Everything has to be worked out to the millimeter, as the smallest variation will show and be felt in the finished article - your feet feel everything - it is a very exact process, making shoes. He is still altering his patterns today, to get the perfect fit.

Next cut out the pieces, an upper and lining for each foot. There is a special curved very sharp knife with a rounded wooden handle that allows you to cut round corners easily. Glue the pieces together, including a toe stiffener at the toe of each foot. Then onto one of the large machines which stands at the side of the small workshop. The skiving machine. This takes the top layer of leather off around the edge of a piece, at whatever depth you set it. Skive the top edges so that it can be folded over without creating too much of a lump. Then paint glue around the skived edge and when it is tacky, make small incisions and fold the edge over, pressing it flat. For this there is a pressing wheel bolted on to the workbench, which squeezes the leather together to ensure it sticks. The uppers are ready.

Finishing
Taking the wooden base, carefully hold the upper in place and staple points around the edge to hold it firm. For this Godfrey has a heavy duty staple gun attached to a small compressor. In the past nails were used, but the invention of the staple gun has made the process much quicker and easier. Staple around the edge until you get to the bend by the ball of the foot. Steam the leather, then insert the last, pushing it hard so it goes right to the toe of the wooden base. For this a converted kettle with a piece of pipe attached to the spout is used. Pull the leather with grips, specially shaped to hold leather without marking or tearing it, over the toe. Hold in place, carefully pressing the leather round evenly so as not to wrinkle it, and staple down. Leave overnight, and then take the lasts out. Nail on toe-tins and staple on plaited strap at the front if you want. And there are your slip-on clogs!

Changes

Over the 30 years he has been working in the trade, Godfrey has seen a considerable change in the demand for clogs. The response of local people when he first started the business was positive. “It was a very strong tradition in the area, and when I first started making traditional clogs a lot of the older generation were very supportive and enthusiastic to see clog making survive. At that stage, I still made quite a lot of traditional clogs for farmers and farm workers, not just in Galloway but in Cumbria, Northumberland and even Yorkshire. But the death of the traditional clog seemed to come with the farm bike…less walking, and you can’t really ride a quad in clogs. That’s only my theory though! The demand for traditional clogs seemed to disappear at about the same time.”

So there have been changes in the demand for footwear. What other changes does he see? “It has always been a bit of a tightrope surviving. Foot and Mouth was a disaster period, and really I am still struggling to get back on my feet after that.” But he still continues to make and sell more footwear every year. It used to be only clogs that were made, but now there are twenty-something styles of footwear. Less traditional clogs are sold now, but lots more slip-on clogs: “Galloway’s version of the Scandinavian style of clog.”

The wooden clog bases Godfrey uses are made of beech and imported from Scandinavia. He used to make his own, but found it much too time consuming and expensive. Also now instead of metal ‘cackers’ on the bottom of the wooden base, there is a thin rubber sole. Modern rubber is extremely hard wearing and probably lasts longer than a lot of cheap steel, and if the sole does wear out after years of wear, it can be replaced.

If he could go back and do it all again, would he? “I don’t regret any of it. If I knew all I know now then, I might not have been prepared to put myself through it. But in some ways I think that fight has been good for me really. Good for the soul!”

Clogs and the Internet
If someone new was starting does he think they would succeed? “I don’t know the answer to that. The internet has given opportunities to very specialised products to be marketed, so somebody with the technical ability to negotiate that might make it succeed. But the administration of the company seems to get more and more difficult every year. More time has to be spent on paperwork than ever. It’s harder to source small amounts of materials and products too. Everything is geared to big companies these days.”

Philosophy
When asked about his philosophy of life, and how clog and shoe making fits into it, Godfrey states: “It’s my therapy!” Then he continues, with a warm glow of contentment, nestled cosily in the arm-chair by the fire: “I have followed my dreams, somewhere…”

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The word clog, as applied to footwear, has these meanings
Clogs (with meaning 1 or 2) were, and in some regions still are, widely worn by workers as protective clothing in factories, mines and farms.

Traditional clogs were made out of willow or poplar wood and are associated with the Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark and Sweden (though Swedish clogs do not resemble Dutch clogs) as part of the touristic "Holland"/Sweden image, where they are seen as a form of national dress. Because of this, Dutch people are sometimes called cloggies, that is, clog-wearers. In Dutch, clogs are known as klompen. The traditional, all wooden clogs have been officially labelled as safety shoes, passing European standards for the CE mark with flying colours. Today, Dutch clogs are available in many tourist shops. Wearing clogs is considered to be healthy for the feet. Despite that fact, the Dutch don't use them anymore for everyday use, but clogs are still used by people working in their gardens, and by planters.

In England slats of wood held in place by thonging or similar were known as "Pattens" and they were usually worn over leather or fabric shoes to raise the wearer's foot above the mud of the unmade road. Poorer people who couldn't afford shoes wore wood directly against the skin, and so the clog was developed, made of part leather and part wood. The English tended to carve Welsh and West Country alder, Scottish birch and Lincolnshire willow. The Welsh used alder, birch & sycamore.[1] The wearing of clogs in Britain really took off with the Industrial Revolution, when workers in the mills, mines, iron, steel, and chemical works, workshops and factories needed strong, cheap footwear. The heyday of the clog in Britain was between 1840s and 1920's and, although traditionally associated with Lancashire, they were worn all over the country, not just in the industrial north of England.[2] There is a theory that clogging or clog dancing arose in these mills as a result of the mill workers entertaining themselves by syncopating foot taps with the rhythmic sounds made by the loom shuttles. Clog dancing became a widespread pastime during this period in England. During the nineteenth century, competitions were held and there were professional clog dancers who performed in the music halls.

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Traditional clogs in Europe

Old dutch man with clogs on ice between reeds.Traditional clogs were made out of willow or poplar wood and are associated with the Netherlands, Belgium, Denmark and Sweden (though Swedish clogs do not resemble Dutch clogs) as part of the touristic "Holland"/Sweden image, where they are seen as a form of national dress. Because of this, Dutch people are sometimes called cloggies, that is, clog-wearers. In Dutch, clogs are known as klompen. The traditional, all wooden clogs have been officially labelled as safety shoes, passing European standards for the CE mark with flying colours. Today, Dutch clogs are available in many tourist shops. Wearing clogs is considered to be healthy for the feet. Despite that fact, the Dutch don't use them anymore for everyday use, but clogs are still used by people working in their gardens, and by planters.

In England slats of wood held in place by thonging or similar were known as "Pattens" and they were usually worn over leather or fabric shoes to raise the wearer's foot above the mud of the unmade road. Poorer people who couldn't afford shoes wore wood directly against the skin, and so the clog was developed, made of part leather and part wood. The English tended to carve Welsh and West Country alder, Scottish birch and Lincolnshire willow. The Welsh used alder, birch & sycamore.[1] The wearing of clogs in Britain really took off with the Industrial Revolution, when workers in the mills, mines, iron, steel, and chemical works, workshops and factories needed strong, cheap footwear. The heyday of the clog in Britain was between 1840s and 1920's and, although traditionally associated with Lancashire, they were worn all over the country, not just in the industrial north of England.[2] There is a theory that clogging or clog dancing arose in these mills as a result of the mill workers entertaining themselves by syncopating foot taps with the rhythmic sounds made by the loom shuttles. Clog dancing became a widespread pastime during this period in England. During the nineteenth century, competitions were held and there were professional clog dancers who performed in the music halls.

Clog dancing is a continuing tradition in Wales. The difference between Welsh clogging and other step dance traditions is that the performance will not only include complicated stepping, but also 'tricks'. For example, snuffing out a candle flame with the dancer's feet, 'toby stepping' - similar to Cossack dancing — and high leaps into the air. Clog fighting, known in Lancashire as 'purring', was a means of settling disputes. Both the fighting, and the betting among spectators was illegal.

"It is all up and down fighting here. They fought quite naked, excepting their clogs. When one has the other down on the ground he first endeavours to choke him by squeezing his throat, then he kicks him on the head with his clogs. Sometimes they are very severely injured."[3]


A Swedish clogThe French name for a wooden shoe or clog is sabot. in the 18th and 19th century clogs became associated with the lower classes. From this period the word sabotage derived from sabot, reportedly describing how disgruntled workers damaged workplace machines in France by tossing their shoes into the mechanisms. However, according to some accounts, sabot-clad workers were simply considered less productive than others who had switched to leather shoes, roughly equating early use of the term sabotage with inefficiency.[4]

Clogs are traditional also in Northern Italy and southern Switzerland, where they are often part of the traditional local costumes.In Friul, clogs are called, palotis, galosis or dalminis. They are traditionally made with an upward pointing wooden sole and a leather hood.

In Asturias, Cantabria and Galicia, the self-governing territories in north west Spain, there is a long tradition of clog making and wearing. The Asturian clog is unusual in that it has two 'feet' on the ball of the foot so that with the heel, the whole clog is elevated off the ground by three supporting structures, almost on mini stilts. (see picture of the Cantabrian clog below). This is useful when working outside or in the barn. These clogs are still worn in many rural northern Spanish 'pueblos' today. Traditionally a slipper is worn inside the clog and the clog is kicked off at the door before entering the house.

[edit] Clogs as overshoes
Pattens are an overshoe variant of sandals or clogs meant to protect other footwear by either covering or elevating it above the street. Geta are Japanese wooden shoes worn outside the house, and are also worn in Korea and elsewhere.

[edit] Clogs in 1970s fashion
Swedish clogs became popular in the seventies and eighties for both sexes. They were usually worn without socks and were considered suitable for the avant-garde man.

[edit] Platform Clogs in 1980s and 1990s fashion
Based on the clog model, platform clogs or sandals, often raised as high as 6 or even 8 inches right through between sole and insole, were another fashion of the 1980s and 90s in many western countries for women. This large mid layer was often made of solid cork, although some were merely of flaky plastic with a cork covering. The sole, more often than not, was made of a light sandy-colored rubber. Some of the platforms of these clogs were encompassed about with a stringy laced effect.

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Dansko Clogs: Form. Function & Fit

• Designed for Comfort
• APMA Approved
• Tough but Good Looking

Designed for Comfort

The Danish have a world-renown design approach that is so universally recognized; virtually no explanation is required. Whether the subject is jewelry, glassware or furniture, when people speak of Danish Design we envision pieces that incorporate clean lines, solid craftsmanship and a thoughtful recognition of function. Given this, it should come as no surprise that similar elements have been drawn into the design of such humble products as clogs.

Dansko clogs originated in Denmark in a mere ten years ago. When Amanda Cabot and Peter Kjellerup, a husband and wife team of horse trainers happened upon these clogs in a small shop, they decided they had discovered the perfect barn shoe. Extraordinarily comfortable, amazingly tough, and attractive enough to wear well beyond the company of horses, these shoes were deemed winners. And others agree. Sales have jumped tenfold in just the last five years as word has spread.

APMA Approved
Dansko clogs not only feel good, they are good for your feet too. Says who? How about the American Podiatric Medical Association, a group that knows a thing or two about feet. The APMA has awarded Dansko clogs the Seal of Acceptance for features such as:

• Anatomically contoured arch supports, rocker-bottom soles and slightly raised heels to ease strain on leg and back muscles.
• Uppers designed to approximate the natural contours of the foot for a comfortable fit.
• A high toe-box are so toes can spread naturally as you walk.
• Generous instep padding and full-length linings made of soft absorptive leather.
• Patented bottoms that combine polyurethane for shock-absorbency and PVC for stability and support.

Tough but Good Looking
And these shoes are tough. Dansko clogs have been unofficially field tested in thousands of barns, restaurants, schools and homes. But under more formal conditions, Industrial Health Services of Denmark performed tests to determine the durability and anti-skid properties of the outsole tread in cold, wet, greasy and acidic conditions. The results were sufficient to impress the APMA.

So they feel good, are healthy for your feet, hold up in demanding conditions, and guess what - they're even attractive. Constructed from high quality leathers and oiled for moisture resistance and pliability, the classic Dansko styles are available in a wide array of warm, rich colors. Additions to the original line now include textured finishes such as Nubuck and Rough-Out (inside out leather).

Perhaps you aspire to be like celebrities Kim Basinger, Julia Roberts, Rosie O'Donnell, Antonio Banderas and Danny Glover who have discovered the comfortable benefits of these clogs. Or maybe you're just considering a pair of comfortable shoes that will survive your demanding lifestyle and will compliment most anything in your closet. Perhaps you've always been a fan of clean, well-executed Danish design. In any case, Dansko clogs could be the answer.

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Clogs - Popular Footwear

Ask your parents or someone older you know about clogs and they're sure to remember how popular these shoes were in the seventies. They are now starting to get fashionable again.

What are clogs? For people who aren't aware of them, it is the total design that makes clogs what they are. Clogs are easily worn because these shoes have open backs. You can slip them on and slip them off rather easily. The older clog designs had leather tops and wooden soles. Their toes pointed up a bit and were rounded. Think of "Little Dutch" shoes; that's what clogs resembled. Clogs are just the more modern forms.

Clogs have returned to being stylish and are more popular this time around. The styling has allowed for clogs with backs and with mesh coverings. Clogs are dependable shoes and they can provide you with a lot of comfort.

Women's clogs

Women like clogs more than men simply because women adore how they can just put the shoes on and go. Those women who especially like wearing sandals would like clogs more. They could put on clogs while keeping some portions of their feet enclosed. Clogs are ideal because you don't have to use them only on particular seasons. You could wear clogs all throughout the year even if you wear or don't wear socks.

A great variety of clogs are around for women to try. These could be made of leather, wood, canvas, suede or they could be garden clogs. Whichever among the varieties of clogs you buy would be based on your own preferences and what your intentions for the clogs might be. As an example, garden clogs are just ideal for gardeners, obviously. They are useful footwear since they could be washed off and used again after they get really dirty. They are created out of tough plastics.

Men's Clogs

It's true that clogs for men exist. A lot of guys don't know about that although even if they knew about it, they may still not consider the idea of wearing them. Historically, only women have been wearing them and that's why guys wouldn't really think about wearing clogs. But men's clogs are different from women's clogs. Clogs for guys are colored brown or black and they're made out of good leather. Another facet which men might like are the clogs' heels. For the clogs made for women, their heels usually are big chunks, but clogs for guys aren't actually chunky.

The many uses for clogs might have made a lot of people like them. Even those in the medical professions like them. Medical clogs are usually made of strong rubber on their tops and bottoms. These give protection from germs and dangers to the feet of doctors and nurses. Medical professionals usually like wearing clogs since they don't slip and a lot of hospitals' floors could be rather slippery.

Clogs aren't just popular for their designs; a lot of people like wearing clogs because they are very practical. They have been with us for years now and it isn't likely that they'd go away anytime soon.

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Mens Clogs –The Lasting Tradition
Clog is a word which resides in our vocabulary but we have never tried to learn all about it. The origin, the appearance and the usage of such type of shoes. Men’s Clogs are among the most exciting inventions in human history. Clogs are made of different materials. Some of them are made of wood in shoe or sandal types and others are made of leather on upper and sides but having wooden sole. Clogs have made tremendous contribution in making people feel comfortable while long-working hours. Clogs are among most preferred choices for Europeans and industrialization is the root-cause for this unflinching likeness of these people.

Men’s Clogs shoes and sandals are widely accepted for their durability, availability and affordability. Some of the professions which require long working hours in standing position are real potential industry for men’s clogs and they still have love for nicely made clogs which relief the workers during long working hors. Men’s clogs shoes in the early days were designed with a cork or wood sole and the upper was made with leather. Mostly men’s clogs shoes have been designed with open-backed but a covered box on the toe. Men’s clogs shoes have been used in wars for clandestine operation; confidential documents were kept in the secret compartment of clog shoes by the spies. Comfort is the only thing which gives elevation to the traditional fashion of men’s clog shoes and despite all innovations, men’s clog shoes have retained their individual significance in the eyes of people who ever experienced this fantastic footwear.

Men’s clogs shoe have more frequent usage in industrial and hospitality sector and these commercial usage has carried-forward this lasting tradition alive to make us witness them in reality. Men’s cogs are part of uniform for hotel Chef’s and in some other industries which involve long working hours in standing way. These industries place huge orders and for this reason, though not in the fashion mainstream but men’s clogs shoes are enjoying reputation and surviving generation after generation.
For last few decades, a new wave of acceptance has been seen in overall arena of footwear. Some of the leading shoe manufacturers companies are readily manufacturing stylish and more comfortable men’s clogs shoes for customers. Customers have been offered a lot of choice in clouds, styles and shapes of men’s clogs shoes in the recent few years but the plain wood made clogs are retaining their loyal customer base as it is.

Men’s clogs are also manufactured in new materials and finishes which makes them more appealing and sensitive in their look. Men’s clogs shoes are made with suede, cloth and plastic to give they light weight and more decent look for normal wear.
We are living in an era of fashion revival and people of our generation want to look different and for that they may be adopting all unusual and uncommon things. Men’s clogs are also getting popularity in different materials and shapes and they are able to be reckoned as the lasting tradition.

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Wearing Clogs in Amsterdam

One of the most unique items to take back home from Amsterdam are clogs, Holland's traditional wooden shoes. Clogs originated as far back as 1367, or probably are even older, and have been worn as daily footwear ever since. In Holland's wet and cold climate, only clogs will keep feet dry and warm at all times. And contrary to appearances they're more comfortable than one would imagine. One can find a large variety in clogs and see clog making and clog painting at De Klompenboer.

Clogs are prepared of balsa-white poplar wood. For this purpose the trees are especially grown. Though while making clogs a perfect pair of clogs one needs fresh, wet wood, cut in square blocks. After chopping the wood it is smoothed bring the right shape. For the clogs to be durable finished clogs are painted. The traditional clogs are painted yellow with a red pattern. It is said that each village used to have its own pattern. At present clogs used for daily wear are still yellow and red and souvenir clogs are painted in a large variety of patterns and colors, varying from flowers to entire street scenes.
The pattern for making clogs for the purpose of souvenirs is dependent on the fashion of the day. The fashion changes with time and sometime back summer tourists seem to prefer black and white clogs in a ‘cow pattern'.

At the ‘Klompenboer' lots of types of clogs are exhibited and stored as well as exhibiting a large variety of antique clogs. The owner Mrs. Jonker, shows clog painting on Tuesdays and Thursdays. If one wants one can always request the traditional craftsman Bruno Jonker to show how to make the perfect clog. All the history of clogs is known to him and he will also tell the story of bridal Clogs.

The significance of wooden clogs is very important. As it has been known these wooden "shoes" are not just for decoration; they are very much a part of everyday life in Holland. Many citizens wear wooden clogs, and they wear them all the time. The different colors of the clogs correspond to their purpose of wearing clogs – yellow shoes for working, red shoes for dancing, and blue shoes for church.

The tourist attraction of any place will not be complete without an oversized something. Outside the Clog Factory there are two separate pairs of oversized bright yellow clogs and an enormous Yellow Clog which two people can comfortably fit in. These clogs were very photogenic as well as being very attractive.

Traditional clogs are associated with the Netherlands or Amsterdam as part of the touristic ""Holland" image, where they are seen as a form of national dress. For the reason that they wear clogs Dutch people are sometimes called cloggies, that is, clog-wearers. In Dutch, clogs are known as klompen. The traditional, all wooden, Dutch clogs have been officially labeled as safety shoes. Today, Dutch clogs are available in many tourist shops. Wearing clogs is considered to be healthy for the feet.

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